How to grow tomatoes

Tomatoes are one of the most rewarding and popular plants to grow at home. Whether you’re working with a small balcony or a full garden bed, learning how to grow tomatoes is simple with the right steps. They’re tasty, versatile, and growing your own saves money—plus, nothing beats the flavor of a sun-ripened tomato picked fresh from the vine.

When growing tomatoes, you can either start from seeds or buy seedlings. Each method has its pros.

Seeds

Starting from seed gives you access to more varieties and saves money if you’re growing a lot. It does require more time, tools, and space indoors—start seeds 6–8 weeks before the last frost.

Seedlings

Buying seedlings is quicker and easier, especially for beginners. You’ll skip the early care and can plant directly once it’s warm enough. Just be aware that garden centers may offer limited variety.

Best choice for beginners? Seedlings. But if you’re ready to experiment or want unique varieties—go for seeds.

From transplanting, tomatoes typically take 60 to 90 days to mature, depending on the variety. If you’re starting from seeds, add about 6–8 weeks of indoor growing before they’re ready to plant outdoors. That means you’ll want to start seeds in late winter or early spring for a summer harvest.

Quick Planting Timeline:

• Seed starting (indoors): 6–8 weeks before the last frost
  
• Transplanting (outdoors): Late spring to early summer
  
• Harvest: Mid-summer to early fall
  

If you live in a cooler region or have a short growing season, opt for early-maturing varieties (55–65 days) to ensure a full harvest before fall frosts.

Tomatoes love the sun and need rich, well-draining soil to thrive. Whether you’re growing in the ground, raised beds, or containers, choosing the right spot and planting technique can make all the difference.

Best Location

Pick a spot that gets at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight each day. In cooler climates, full sun is essential. In very hot regions, some afternoon shade can help protect your plants from extreme heat.

Tomatoes prefer sheltered areas with good airflow but without strong wind exposure, which can damage tall, viney varieties.

Growing in a Greenhouse

If you live in a cooler climate or want to extend your tomato season, a greenhouse is ideal. It provides consistent warmth and protection from unpredictable weather, helping plants thrive and fruit earlier. Just make sure your greenhouse has good ventilation, as tomatoes don’t like overly humid, stagnant air. Opening vents or doors regularly helps prevent fungal diseases and keeps plants healthy.

Tomato plants grow fast and heavy, especially when they start producing fruit. Most varieties need support to stay upright, prevent disease, and maximize yields. Planning your support system early makes maintenance easier all season long.

Why Support Matters

Unstaked tomato plants can sprawl across the ground, leading to:

• Increased risk of fungal diseases from soil splash
  
• Broken stems from the weight of ripening fruit
  
• Less sun exposure and poor air circulation, which stunts growth
  

Supporting your plants keeps them healthier, tidier, and more productive.

Choosing the Right Support

• Stakes: Ideal for indeterminate (vining) varieties. Use a sturdy stake (at least 1.5–2 meters tall) and tie the main stem loosely to the stake as it grows.
  
• Cages: Great for determinate (bush) tomatoes or smaller plants. Easy to install and support the plant in all directions.
  
• Trellises or strings: Suitable for advanced gardeners or large gardens. Allows for vertical training and better airflow.
  

Tomatoes are heavy drinkers and feeders—consistent watering and proper nutrition are key to healthy growth and a big harvest. Too little water or the wrong feeding schedule can lead to problems like cracked fruit or blossom end rot.

How to Water Tomatoes

• Water deeply and consistently. Aim for about 2.5 cm (1 inch) of water per week, more during hot, dry weather.
  
• Morning is best. Water early in the day so plants have time to dry before night, reducing the risk of disease.
  
• Avoid overhead watering. Water at the base to keep leaves dry and prevent fungal issues.
  
• Mulch helps. A 5–10 cm layer of straw, compost, or shredded leaves keeps soil moist and reduces watering needs.
  
• Containers need more attention. Tomatoes in pots may need watering once or even twice a day in midsummer.

Feeding for Strong Growth

Tomatoes are nutrient-hungry, especially when setting fruit. The best approach is a mix of soil prep and regular feeding:

• Mix compost and slow-release fertilizer into the soil at planting time.
  
• Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer (slightly higher in phosphorus and potassium) every 2–3 weeks during the growing season.
  
• Watch your plants—yellowing leaves or slow growth may mean they need a boost.

Don’t overdo nitrogen-heavy fertilizers—they’ll give you lush leaves but few tomatoes.

Regular care keeps tomato plants healthy, productive, and manageable. While not every tomato needs pruning, knowing how and when to train your plants can make a big difference in yield and disease prevention.

How to Prune

• Remove suckers – these are the small shoots that grow between the main stem and branches. Pinching them off early helps the plant focus energy on fruit production.
  
• Clear the bottom – trim lower leaves that touch the soil to prevent disease.
  
• Limit main stems – aim for 1–3 main stems on indeterminate plants. Too many and the plant becomes tangled and harder to support.
  
• Top the plant – late in the season, cut off the growing tip 4–6 weeks before your first frost to help remaining fruit ripen.
  

Training on Supports

Check your plants weekly and tie them gently to stakes, cages, or trellises as they grow. Use soft ties like garden twine, cloth strips, or Velcro—never wire or anything that could cut into the stem.

Keeping your plants tidy and upright improves sunlight exposure, air flow, and makes harvesting much easier.

Tomatoes are ready to pick when they’ve reached their full color (red, yellow, orange, etc., depending on the variety) and feel slightly firm but give gently when squeezed.

• Cherry and small tomatoes: Harvest as soon as they color up—they’ll keep producing.
  
• Larger varieties: Wait until they’re fully colored and slightly soft to the touch.
  
• Cool climates or late season: You can pick tomatoes just before they’re fully ripe and let them finish ripening indoors on a sunny windowsill.
  

Avoid leaving ripe fruit on the vine too long, as it may split or attract pests.

Storing Your Tomatoes

• Room temperature is best. Avoid the fridge—it dulls flavor and makes the texture mushy.
  
• Ripen green or underripe tomatoes indoors in a paper bag or on a windowsill.
  

Learning how to grow tomatoes is one of the most satisfying steps you can take as a home gardener. Whether you start from seed or buy a few seedlings, a little care and planning go a long way. With the right sunlight, consistent watering, and a bit of attention to pruning and pests, you’ll be rewarded with fresh, flavorful tomatoes all summer long.

What’s your favorite tomato variety to grow or eat?

Have you grown tomatoes before? What worked best for you?

Do you prefer growing from seeds or seedlings?